Alexander Wang; What’s Going On?
It all started with sneakers, according to Alexander Wang. “They’re such an infatuation of my generation,” said the designer, “But I wanted to reinterpret and manipulate the ideas and mix them with the cutting of Madame Grès and Fortuny.”
It’s quite the mix, sure, but if anyone is going to pull it off, its Wang. His work has taken on a much more polished, sharply tailored edge since his increased exposure to the couture wonderland of Paris (Wang was named creative director of Balenciaga back in 2012), and its clear that he’s trying to carve his own precise silhouette that is far from the more casual styles he started off with.
There was a sharp sense of tailoring in the narrow, angular shoulders, and in the waists pulled in with aertex belts, or wide cinchers which resembled giant barcodes.
It was not only in the use of aertex that a slightly sporting feel was present; those tight, high-waisted trousers were almost legging-like, perfect for play, and figure-hugging dresses with aertex panels looked almost like something one might wear to go scuba diving.
Ever consumer-savvy, Wang’s pieces do not get carried away with their own virtuosity, and his jackets and high-waisted trousers, in particular, would not look out of place in any woman’s wardrobe. Perhaps this collection is a hint of what we can expect to see when Wang’s collaboration with H&M is revealed in November?
Of course, there were some touches of wild (yet carefully executed) creativity; pleated tops engulfing a model’s torso like flames, and the beautifully patterned knitwear with a slight futuristic gleam.
For a collection which started with thoughts of sneakers, not a single shoe of that family dared show itself on this catwalk; instead it was all sandals, made partially from techno-fishnets, and woven sock-shoes. A very clever, very well-executed set of designs from a very stylish man.