Altuzarra; What’s Going On?
As current holder of the CFDA/Vogue title of Womenswear Designer of the Year, it is fair to say that we were all expecting big things from Joseph Altuzarra’s latest collection; and, you know what? I for one was not disappointed.
“Rosemary’s Baby and Barry Lyndon were the starting points for this collection,” the designer revealed. “I became interested in the idea of sinister and undone prettiness and romance, ill-fated and doomed.”
Altuzarra’s boyfriend, who the designer is set to marry in the very near future, might not be over the moon with the thought that his fiance is obsessing over “ill-fated and doomed” romance; but its certainly a tragic combination which has given rise to an extremely interesting set of designs. Gingham is given a sharp, gown-up edge in lean pencil skirt-suits, whilst the flowing gowns with their slashed, plunging necklines and deathly autumn tones do emit an air of dying beauty.
Black dresses with sheer, angular inserts drip with seed pearls, evoking the 18th Century jewellery and adornment which also inspired Altuzarra’s designs.
Lattice leather dresses and shirts, all meticulously put together by hand, manage to give glimpses of the flesh beneath without falling into the realms of “trashy.” Elsewhere, dizzying monochrome stripes clashed and jarred to create a striking effect on well-tailored pieces and casual shirt-dresses alike.
Beauty, with just a whisper of darkness; just the sort of thing I like best. Bravo, Mr Altuzarra.