Marc by Marc Jacobs; What’s Going On?
Its their second collection for Marc by Marc Jacobs, and after the roaring success of their debut for the brand, designers Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier found themselves feeling the pressure.
The pair needn’t have worried; shaped by their backgrounds in English rave culture, these pieces will not be soon forgot. Acid pastels combined with sharp, black accents were a memorable combination, whilst slogan t-shirts, reading “NEW WORLD SYSTEM” pushed an onlooker even further Bartley and Hillier’s Clockwork Orange-esque dystopia.
Silhouettes are androgynous and lose, with angular elements in the shoulders and fragmented skirts and dresses. There is a 1960s, space-age vibe in the eclecticism of the looks, in terms of their vibrant colours, futuristic materials and rubbery ankle boots.
Hard-edged, slightly subverted sophistication was also evoked in the use of latex, sourced from the East End’s House of Harlot. It was then incorporated into the collection in a whole variety of different ways, including into polka dot skirts and shirts, bandeau tops and stockings.
Meanwhile, geometric motifs were inspired by Bartley’s research into LA’s Fern Gallery, which was associated with a woman called Marjorie Cameron, who might be considered a “witch,” due to her interest in such matters. It’s a highly unusual and intriguing influence, and you can’t help but wonder in which strange place the London duo will next find inspiration.