Eudon Choi; What’s Going On?
Georgia O’Keefe; it’s not the most original of influences. We’ve seen those big flowers, drawn from her sexualised, abstract paintings, over and over again. However, if anyone could find a new angle from which to approach the artist and her work, a way to bring the O’Keefe fascination into the modern urban rush, it would be the up-and-coming Eudon Choi.
As such, it was not from her paintings that the designer drew, but from her wardrobe. “I was really drawn to her personal style first,” Choi said backstage. “She wore lots of lightweight tailoring and big, voluminous shirts…there’s a lot of black tailoring to reflect this. I like the balance between her work being so feminine but that her own style was more masculine.”
Black certainly did dominate the palette somewhat, occasionally brightened by the odd flash of blue or pink. “Funnily enough in spring/summer I would never normally use black, but this season, I was so drawn into it. It feels so fresh and timely,” the designer explained.
I for one see no problem with black for spring; the absence of colour holds endless sartorial possibilities, and Choi’s casually cool silhouettes and colourful little additions ensure that these looks feel fresh and ready for warmer weather.
Cleverly placed ruffles at the hems of trousers and jackets added a little feminine flounce to otherwise masculine silhouettes; the sort of dichotomy that O’Keefe’s own life and work seemed to inhabit.
Perhaps the best designs of the show, however, were the floral jacquards which appeared in various shades of pastel, as well as in various shapes and sizes. The print was fashioned into shift dresses with cut-out shoulders, into jackets and cigarette trousers, kept in check by black tailoring, or delicate white shirts.
“I’m so dazed” Choi said, after the last look had been displayed. “We’ve been working so hard…I’m so dazed.” Showing on the first day of London Fashion Week certainly must be stressful; but this flawlessly chic collection was hopefully worth the work.