Marc Jacobs; What’s Going On?
Marc Jacobs is an expert in transforming the classic fashion show into a theatrical experience, and he did not disappoint with the cacophony of pink that was his most recent show in New York. A pink house dominated the scene, and the runway was constructed from Schiaparelli gravel. The audience were seated on pink carpeted benches, and given a pair of Beats headphones through which a disembodied voice floated, with words such as “bring out the crooked smile and the backpack.” Watching with the headphones ensured that this was a totally individual, immersive experience.
“He loves The Wizard of Oz,” explained set designer Stefano Beckman, moments before the show, “as though the house was just dropped into the middle of the Armory—like an art project. And he’s really into happy, bright, optimistic colour!”
The set was bright, yes, but the colour palette of the overall collection was fairly subtle; it probably would have been a bit much if the clothes had tried to fight with all that pink. The blues, greens and metallic shades, however, still had a rich feel to them, whilst maintaining the strong, military theme which ran throughout the entire collection.
Its perhaps important to remember, in the face of so much theatricality, that the clothes themselves are pieces of art, made from linen and wool of the highest quality. There is also, perhaps, a gentle anti-war message in the sartorial subversion of traditional, military uniform-like pieces; ruffled pouf skirts, and 1960s style shift dresses, all embellished with cartoonishly big pockets and little flowers.
There were more of the cropped tops and bare midriffs that we have seen this week in New York, as well as more belted-waists.
Chunky coats and jackets, with those big pockets, seem like they would just be so warm, comfortable and (above all) stylish for the winter; one of those is definitely going on my wishlist.
So don’t let the impressive experience of the show draw too much attention from the clothes themselves; the Marc Jacobs army is here.