Proenza Schouler; What’s Going On?

During a preview of this collection, designer Lazaro Hernandez said “If this collection was a room, it would be an old library with moldering books in it. A little East Coast, a little Ivy.”

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“We’ve been looking at American codes,” he added, “and thinking about our youth. Blouses with bombers; plaid; brown piping on things. Nylon anoraks and tennis dresses.”

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These are codes which Hernandez and Jack McCollough had infused with their own brand of cool, creating pieces using techniques which combined modern technologies with time-honoured hand-craftwork. Sweater dresses and nylon-look anoraks were actually created from miraculously fine leather, for instance, whilst polo shirt-dresses were spliced with blocks of python. These were deceptively simple clothes, which forced you to look twice.

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Kilted skirts, meanwhile, seemed to be made from a classic black and white grid pattern, but was actually chiffon woven with little lozenges that had been hand-trimmed in the classic fil coupe manner. Bags sloping off the shoulder and strappy sandals finished off the looks with a slouchy, effortlessly cool flourish.

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The colour palette was primarily black, white, burnt orange and dark green; perhaps not very summery, but strikingly sophisticated, and tough in an elegant sort of way.

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“It’s a ‘twisted lady’ idea,” said Hernandez, “kind of how our friends dress—a little polish, but with something weird and off about it.” And its very, very cool.

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