Proenza Schouler; What’s Going On?
During a preview of this collection, designer Lazaro Hernandez said “If this collection was a room, it would be an old library with moldering books in it. A little East Coast, a little Ivy.”
“We’ve been looking at American codes,” he added, “and thinking about our youth. Blouses with bombers; plaid; brown piping on things. Nylon anoraks and tennis dresses.”
These are codes which Hernandez and Jack McCollough had infused with their own brand of cool, creating pieces using techniques which combined modern technologies with time-honoured hand-craftwork. Sweater dresses and nylon-look anoraks were actually created from miraculously fine leather, for instance, whilst polo shirt-dresses were spliced with blocks of python. These were deceptively simple clothes, which forced you to look twice.
Kilted skirts, meanwhile, seemed to be made from a classic black and white grid pattern, but was actually chiffon woven with little lozenges that had been hand-trimmed in the classic fil coupe manner. Bags sloping off the shoulder and strappy sandals finished off the looks with a slouchy, effortlessly cool flourish.
The colour palette was primarily black, white, burnt orange and dark green; perhaps not very summery, but strikingly sophisticated, and tough in an elegant sort of way.
“It’s a ‘twisted lady’ idea,” said Hernandez, “kind of how our friends dress—a little polish, but with something weird and off about it.” And its very, very cool.