Entitled “Ascent,” this collection was Christoper Raeburn expanding his horizons, and soaringly so. The utilitarian aesthetic that we have cone to expect from Raeburn was injected with a new sense of stylish, feminine prettiness. “My starting point was a desert bone yard in Arizona, but it soon became about exploring the lightness of flight and freedom, ” the designer explained after the show.
The concept allowed Raeburn to once more demonstrate his knack for repurposing materials, this time in the bright pink pieces (made from undyed parachute material used in humanitarian aid drops) and the silk organza designs (spun from an original MiG fighter pilot suit); weightless tranquillity, woven of tech fabrics.
However, although he might have been trying a slightly different aesthetic, the pieces retained that unmistakable Raeburn touch; the sandals remained, as did the signature oversized anoraks. “It was important to me that the Raeburn woman feels chic but comfortable wherever she goes,” the designer explained, and indeed the pieces struck exactly the right note between the feminine and the functional.
Sheer panels and entirely sheer oversized T-shirts added a hint of sex to his aesthetic, with the light-as-air fabrics moving beautifully around the body. Eveningwear peeked onto the catwalk, too, in the form of dark dresses.
The colour palette was much more vibrant than we have seen from Raeburn in the past; abstract blocks of greys and pinks patterned abstract colour block pieces decorated slouchy sweaters, tiny shorts and sheer t-shirts. Elsewhere, beautiful marbled prints swirled like moody weather maps across dresses and jackets.
“I’m celebrating the sixth year of my label now, and it feels like it’s been a natural evolution. For that I’m very happy,” he declared. Keep on moving forward, Mr Raeburn; I can’t wait to see what comes next.