Emilia Wickstead; What’s Going On?
“I had this vision of a young girl getting dressed up for a night out, dancing in front of the mirror to someone like David Bowie or Bryan Ferry, and very excited at perhaps seeing her crush at the club that night,” said Emilia Wickstead, after her Spring/Summer 2015 show. Cute, but Wickstead’s clothes are anything but; they feel youthful, sure, but they’re just for grown ups, and very sophisticated grown ups at that (her creations are favourites of Kate Middleton, and are regularly seen decorating members of the upper class at affairs such as Ascot).
However, many of the designs in this collection were (for Wickstead) refreshingly daring, with high hemlines, high slits, and sheer, flesh-coloured fabric.
The Emilia signature was still very much there, though, in the luxurious pastel shades and glamorous mid-century silhouettes. Her clothes have that alluring quality which makes you want to reach out and touch them; they appear weightless in crinkled silk and organza, which is cleverly given structure with pinched seaming.
“I am a little obsessed with stripes,” said Wickstead, and indeed subtly striped pieces are the closest thing we get to a pattern in this set of well-tailored designs.
With their sumptuously beautiful silhouettes, fabrics and colours, mixed with just the merest whisper of the risqué, there is no doubt in my mind that these designs will be stirring up a pastel storm on red carpets everywhere very soon. A royally impeccable collection.