Jean-Pierre Braganza; What’s Going On?
Severe, black and white graphic prints are perhaps not something that one might immediately associate with spring days; however, Jean-Pierre Braganza’s collection rejected the obvious, creating for us instead an incredibly stylish set of designs, which really seem to capture the zeitgeist with their tough silhouettes and minimalistic colour palette.
These are outfits which could take you from day to night in a heartbeat, with the dramatically monochromatic palette and the merest nod to 1980s power dressing in the angular shoulders and tailored edge.
There is a definite industrial vibe to these designs, which perhaps stems from Braganza’s unusual set of influences; Matthew Barney’s film River of Fundament, the decay of Detroit, and the aesthetic of motorcycle parts. Intricate yet bold prints reflecting these concepts exploded across jumpers and dresses for a striking, yet effortlessly cool set of designs.
Graphic pieces were embellished on the shoulders with crystal beading, trimmed with feathers and broken up with panels of sheer material. A black, utilitarian jumpsuit with mesh panelled detailing was a particularly strong piece for me.
Hair and make-up had a 1960s vibe, but this was the 60s with a graphic, modern edge. Make-up artist Terry Barber described the thick eyeliner and pale lips as “British IT girl heading off to LA and hooking up with a Hell’s Angel biker.” It definitely fits in well with the dark, dystopian glamour of Braganza’s clothes.
Braganza said that this was his most commercial collection to date; and there are more than a few pieces here that I would rush off to buy. Its just so cool.