Mary Katrantzou; What’s Going On?
Katrantzou has come a long way from her beginnings in print and bold textures, and her latest collection is a triumph; a masterpiece from a designer who is all grown up, and admirably so. Looking at the impeccable level of detail and craftsmanship of these designs, its hard to believe that she only showed her first collection at London Fashion Week five years ago.
Such a sophisticated finished product could have only been born from a highly sophisticated original concept. Katranzou was inspired by dance and movement; specifically, the way that this reminded her of the movement of the Earth’s tectonic plates – quite a jump, but its a quality idea. This led her thoughts to the supercontinent, Pangaea, the land mass which existed before the continents that we know today. This geographic influence seeped into the venue itself, as models paraded down a black catwalk, which glimmered with crystals; reminiscent of lava flow.
This was a fairly muted palette for Katrantzou, with pretty touches of pale blues, faded coral and violet to bring the pieces alive. The dresses, with high slits in the skirts and intricately shaped hemlines, seemed to almost to glow.
The silhouettes are simpler, more sophisticated than we have seen from Katrantzou in the past; perhaps reflecting the growing confidence of a designer who is increasingly self-assured in her ability to make an impact without having to throw bold prints and dramatic shapes at a model.
But this is deceptive simplicity; individual piece move together as seamlessly as dancers moving in sync; the khaki and sand flared trousers with which the show opened were tailored to perfection, whilst elsewhere texturally contrasting fabrics added a beautifully subtle level of detail to overall looks and separates alike.
And it is beautiful; embroidered tulle, glittering sheer skirts which encase the models’ legs in a sparkling bubble, pieces adorned in delicate micro-beading. This is the work of a designer who not only knows what she’s doing, but knows that what she’s doing is good. People are going to want to wear these clothes; I know I do.