Jonathan Saunders; What’s Going On?
Designer Jonathan Saunders explained that he wanted to convey “lightness, and an optimistic, confident femininity” in this, his Spring/Summer collection at London Fashion Week. This he did, and much more; these pieces were city-ready, summer-ready and made to prettily trace the female form with airy lightness.
“I worked with the most incredible Japanese mill,” said Saunders, “on creating fabrics. A sense of lightness was the most important thing to me.” Indeed, that sense of lightness pervades every single one of Saunders’ designs, seamlessly wrapping the models in beautiful, paper-thin shades of blue and green.
Influences from Japan also came into play in the wrapping and folding of blouses and jackets, the delicate beading and embroidery, and those beautiful shift dresses which seemed to glide along the catwalk. It was all very summery, tinged with a sort of oriental arts and crafts aesthetic, but extremely wearable despite their incredible delicacy.
His tailoring was scattered with flowers, leaves and birds, hinting at nature even in these most urban of designs. Full skirts, meanwhile, were given a hint of sensual fragility with sheer overlays, whilst voile rosettes frothed across bodices and jumpers for added edge.
The colour palette was fairly tame, but it felt luxurious; clear, flesh blues, silky caramels and flashes of gold lame bought the designs to life in the most elegant way possible. Saunders set out with a very specific idea of what he wanted to create, and that idea is exactly what we saw in sartorial form here; a truly lovely set of clothes.