Tom Ford; What’s Going On?
Tom Ford is known for his love of tousled, up-all-night hair, smoky eyes and dark, 1970s-inspired pieces, and all his tropes were back with a vengeance in his Spring/Summer 2015 show, with tall, slightly disheveled beauties striding along the catwalk on impossibly tall glam-rock platforms.
We’ve seen a great many young designers in both New York and London displaying sheer pieces which exhibit the female form in a sensually empowering way, but it is Ford, with his years of experience and refined sense of luxury, who has really made this trend into something special, something which feels like a real masterpiece. Because yes, a lot of the clothes are see-through, yes, you can see the models’ breasts shockhorror, but impeccable craftmanship and balance within the both overall designs and individual pieces mean that the half-nakedness feels incidental. This feels like looking at a nude painting by an Old Master; its about the skill and beauty in the piece’s creation rather than any overt need for shock value.
So, Ford is winning at taking the trend for transparent pieces and transforming them into beautiful clothes rather than pieces that exist merely to make a statement. But he’s also doing well in balancing the gothic and the glamorous; those black leggings combined with a crystal-encrusted cape is particularly beautiful.
Metallic pieces shimmer and shine, adding a little extra lustre to the stylish proceedings; those gold and silver mini dresses were particularly beautiful, evoking a sort of glam 1960s icon.
Elsewhere, silhouettes were incredibly tall and incredibly slim, with legs that went on forever in platforms and highwaisted pantsuits. Slits up mini-skirts and exposed stockings added a hint of sex to the darkly dramatic collection. Ford is proving that being an Old Master in sartorial terms means moving forward with contemporary trends, whilst always ensuring that quality, sharp tailoring and sharper silhouettes remain to root those pieces in the sophisticated world of high-fashion.