Francesco Scognamiglio; What’s Going On?
Francesco Scognamiglio’s latest offerings definitely seemed as though they would be more suited to the boudoir than anywhere else; and in the most incredibly beautiful, sensual way possible. Airy light embroideries enfolded limbs and torsos, showing glimpses of skin and floral prints below, whilst 1930s-inspired silhouettes with touches of chantilly lace added to an aesthetic that was more suited to lingerie than ordinary outerwear.
The colour palette, too, also evoked that vintage sensuality, with silk and lace in white, pale blue, peach and, towards the end, a darker, more solid, black.
Sheer tulle blouses, crossed with salopettes over the breasts, tapped into the trend for the transparent in a very grown up way, demonstrating Scognamiglio’s considerable skill as a tailor.
The floral dresses which came towards the end did feel as though they had a little more substance that the prettily delicate slips and separates that had come before; these were certainly more wearable, although with a hint of decadence in their crystal embroideries.
This was romance at its absolute best, managing to be both opulent and fragile whilst never losing sight of that lovely, sensual femininity. You probably couldn’t wear these down the street without getting a few stares, but that doesn’t make me love these pieces any less than I do; and I do very much like this collection.
Scognamiglio himself was allegedly most excited about the white tulle gown that Karmen Pedaru modeled at the show’s close, hinting that it was a taste of a forthcoming couture collection. That will be something I very much look forward to seeing.