Max Mara; What’s Going On?
The 1970s timewarp we’ve been experiencing in Milan this season continued to run its way through Max Mara’s Spring/Summer 2015 show; although, of course, they had put their own unique little twist on the aesthetic. The show notes referred to seventies model Anjelica Huston, a favourite of the great fashion photographers of the time (Avedon and Bailey included) and star of an advertising campaign for Max Mara in 1971.
This unique archival influence was clear across the catwalk, from the tall, lean silhouettes to the floating blouses and midi-length dresses and skirts. Knee-high suede boots also had a distinctly vintage aesthetic.
Huston was known for her sophisticated sportswear, often slinging a mannish jacket over a shirt dress; perhaps this was the inspiration behind this collection’s tailoring, which had a masculine feel about its strong shoulders and piped blazers.
The micro-floral prints which swarmed over blouses and skirts bloomed into painterly prints which splashed themselves over coats and trousers. These patterns also found there way onto hats and boots, evoking a full-on, hippy-urban vibe.
Elsewhere, pieces in classic neutrals such as stone grey and black perhaps felt like the most sophisticated of the collection; it seems hard to go wrong with one of those mannish coats, or a beautiful suede wrap-skirt. This was just the sort of collection one might expect from Max Mara – solid, reliable, luxurious outerwear – and it was nice to see the house pay such a direct homage to its sartorial past.