Max Mara; What’s Going On?

The 1970s timewarp we’ve been experiencing in Milan this season continued to run its way through Max Mara’s Spring/Summer 2015 show; although, of course, they had put their own unique little twist on the aesthetic. The show notes referred to seventies model Anjelica Huston, a favourite of the great fashion photographers of the time (Avedon and Bailey included) and star of an advertising campaign for Max Mara in 1971.

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This unique archival influence was clear across the catwalk, from the tall, lean silhouettes to the floating blouses and midi-length dresses and skirts. Knee-high suede boots also had a distinctly vintage aesthetic.

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Huston was known for her sophisticated sportswear, often slinging a mannish jacket over a shirt dress; perhaps this was the inspiration behind this collection’s tailoring, which had a masculine feel about its strong shoulders and piped blazers.

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The micro-floral prints which swarmed over blouses and skirts bloomed into painterly prints which splashed themselves over coats and trousers. These patterns also found there way onto hats and boots, evoking a full-on, hippy-urban vibe.

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Elsewhere, pieces in classic neutrals such as stone grey and black perhaps felt like the most sophisticated of the collection; it seems hard to go wrong with one of those mannish coats, or a beautiful suede wrap-skirt. This was just the sort of collection one might expect from Max Mara – solid, reliable, luxurious outerwear – and it was nice to see the house pay such a direct homage to its sartorial past.

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