Dsquared²; What’s Going On?
Silk raffia was a main ingredient in this, the Caten twins’ latest offerings for Dsquared², showing itself in skirts, jackets and little shorts throughout this bright collection.
And bright it was; skirts frothed around the models’ legs in bright, bold hues of pink and yellow. Heavy, blockish bags hung colourfully from the models’ hands, whilst gladiator sandals popped in poster-paint shades. It was a nice change from the vintage-style neutral shades that have largely dominated Milan, and really evoked feelings of summery, Mediterranean nights.
Vibrant colour blocks conjured dreams of Sonia Delaunay’s textiles, whilst beading on sweatshirts, slouchy pants and thigh-high boots added a lump of opulence to the offerings.
The Caten brothers made use of striking juxtapositions between fairly plain basics and more elaborate, sophisticated pieces; for example, a cropped denim jacket was paired with a skirt made from from scalloped plissé, those silk raffia skirts were teamed with a t-shirt and a gold leather jacket was slung over a pair of distressed jeans.
The designers’ technical virtuosity has in the past been obscured by their taste for showmanship, but today they displayed their clothes in comparatively neutral surroundings, putting more of an influence on the form and craft of their designs. This approach was one that paid off; these are strikingly lovely clothes, and they deserve to steal all the attention.