Emilio Pucci; What’s Going On?
Pucci’s Creative Director, Peter Dundas, was a mere child in Milan’s current favourite decade, the 1970s, but that hasn’t stopped him from developing a lifelong fascination with those psychedelic, hippy days with which the sixties closed and the seventies began. “I was always a little frustrated I wasn’t around then,” he laughed backstage. “I should have been. But then again,” he shrugged, “I probably wouldn’t be here now.”
Of course, this season’s overwhelming penchant for the seventies aesthetic isn’t anything new for Dundas, who has been frolicking in the hippy hinterland of fringing, beading and gossamer since he started at Pucci. This, then, was his time to really shine, and his unbelievably vibrant pieces, which seem to explode in billowing clouds of colour and energy, will surely be particularly popular in the face of all the peace and love we’ve been seeing lately.
“It’s always resonated with me. I think it’s a reaction,” said Dundas. “I really wanted to do it last time so just thought I’m just going to do it.”
A carefree approach to a collection that was in itself carefree. Vividly bohemian, yet still fiercely contemporary, the flared pantsuits and exotic prints felt refined, as though the 70s home-made tie-dye and thrown together pieces had been aggressively polished until they were suitable for the Now.
Hair was long and flowing to keep with the vintage-hippy theme, whilst silhouettes were long and billowing one minute, and structured and tailored the next.
Crochet dresses embroidered with flowers and intricate, beaded-embellishments were reminders of the impeccable level of craftsmanship that evidently went into these designs. Wonderful, psychedelic patterns blossomed across blouses, dresses, vests and jackets, evoking some sort of LSD-induced trip inside a kaleidoscope.
But it was those maxi dresses which really stole the show; veritable rainbows, draped from halter-necklaces and moving through the air like some sort of futurist sculpture, dynamic yet loose and casual. Those dresses; they would have been masterpieces in the seventies, and they’re still masterpieces now.