Salvatore Ferragamo; What’s Going On?
Although creative director Massimiliano Giornetti has, over the past few years, seemed somewhat reluctant to dig around in Ferragamo’s extensive archives, this season he plundered it thoroughly; most noticeably in his updating of the iconic rainbow sandals which Salvatore Ferragamo designed in 1938 for Judy Garland.
Giornetti transformed the House’s signature shoe into a thoroughly modern piece; footwear that could not be more in keeping with this season’s coolest trends if it tried. The solid, chunky wedge was drained of colour, with its multi-layered platform being rendered in a sleek monochrome palette instead. These heavy, statement shoes anchored the collection firmly to the Instagram pages of 2014, even as they tapped into Ferregamo’s impressive heritage.
The rest of the collection followed a similar concept. Giornetti explained that he had been inspired by natural, organic materials and their transformative power; just as Ferragamo’s eponymous founder had been in the past. His mood-board was covered in photos of Murano glass, one of the most beautiful examples of a hand-crafted art which still exists in the world today.
Giornetti kept the lines and tailoring elegant and sharp, explaining that the new standard for luxury will be “found in items that feel precious and are worked by hand.” Indeed, these pieces were deceptively simple to look at, in fact boasting a great deal of technical virtuosity. Knitted dresses hugged the figure and gently fell to just below the knee with an air of graceful fluidity that one probably doesn’t encounter every day.
Textural contrasts, meanwhile, added visual depth to the collection, whilst again emphasising Giornetti’s skill as an artisan. Snakeskin wove itself across bodices and coats, whilst fringing decorated sleeveless jackets and clutch bags. Everything felt opulent and expensive, which it almost certainly would be, if you felt so inclined to buy any of these pieces. Either way, whether you can afford these clothes or not; its hard not to admire them.