Marni; What’s Going On?
A very happy 20th birthday to Marni this year; to celebrate, Consuelo Castiglioni transformed the Rotonda della Besana into a pop-up flower market, offering homewares and fashion accessories, the proceeds of which went towards children’s charities. “Our own way to celebrate,” said Consuelo. “No retrospective. We wanted to do something more in our spirit.”
Indeed, the designs which bloomed along the catwalk this season were very much in keeping with the Marni spirit, combining the feminine with the boldly experimental.
There was a distinctly carefree, traveller aesthetic to the long, loose sleeves, and the fabric hanging and trailing casually from limbs. Oversized judo belts added a slight definition to the silhouettes, whilst deep V’s at the back of the designs added a sensual touch to pieces which seemed almost plain when viewed from the front.
Initially devoid of the floral prints one might have expected, explosions of mirrored crystals, raffia flowers and embroidered, beaded appliqués bought colour and life to the latter half of the collection.
The colour palette began neutral, with beige and white dominating, whilst the brighter colours came later.
Asymmetric skirts swirled and wrapped around the models’ legs as they walked, and there was a an aesthetic reminiscent of kimonos in the trailing dresses and wrap-around style.
Everything felt beautifully crafted, from the jet black floral embellishments, to the colourful patterns on leather jackets.
On the feet were flat sandals, again evoking that feeling of a traveller; Conseulo had recently been to Bhutan, and many of the clothes and outfits she saw there inspired this collection.
This was certainly a much more imaginative approach to an anniversary collection than a mere retrospective; a very happy birthday indeed.